Words and Photography: Nathan Chadwick
Fancy some mid-winter classic action? That’s great, but here’s how to reawaken your car safely
Bringing a classic car back to life after months – or even years – off the road is one of the most satisfying moments of ownership. Done properly, it’s also a chance to prevent costly damage, spot emerging issues early and set the car up for a trouble-free driving season. Rushing the process, however, can lead to mechanical failures, leaks and avoidable wear. So if you fancy taking your pride and joy out for a mid-winter romp, it’s worth taking precautions…
Before touching the key, give the car a thorough walk-around. Look for signs of fluid leaks beneath the vehicle – oil, coolant, brake fluid or fuel stains should all be investigated before proceeding. UK garages and storage units can encourage condensation, so check for surface corrosion on brake discs, suspension components and fasteners.
Inspect tyres carefully. Flat spots are common after long storage, especially on older cross-ply or budget radials. Look for cracking in the sidewalls, which can be exacerbated by cold British winters. Even if tread depth looks fine, perished tyres should be replaced before road use. Inside the engine bay, check for evidence of rodents – chewed wiring, nests in airboxes or insulation pulled into corners. This is more common than many owners realise, particularly in rural areas.
If the battery was left connected, assume it’s discharged and possibly damaged. A slow recharge with a quality charger is preferable to jump-starting, which can stress old wiring and voltage-sensitive components. If the battery won’t hold charge, replace it – UK winters are hard on batteries.
Before reconnecting power, check visible wiring for cracked insulation or corrosion at terminals. Earth straps are particularly important on older cars; a poor earth can cause a host of confusing electrical issues once running.
Test basic electrical functions – lights, indicators, horn and wipers – before driving. Faulty lighting is an instant MOT failure in the UK and often the result of corroded contacts after storage.
Even if fluids looked acceptable when the car was laid up, time and temperature changes can degrade them. If the car has been stored for over a year, an engine oil and filter change before start-up is wise. Acids and moisture accumulate in oil during storage, particularly in damp UK conditions.
Check coolant level and condition. Milky residue or rust-coloured coolant suggests internal corrosion. Older engines benefit from the correct corrosion inhibitors, not just water topped up. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, lowering its boiling point. If the fluid is more than two years old, plan to replace it before serious driving.
Modern E10 petrol absorbs moisture and degrades quickly. If fuel is more than six months old and untreated, draining the tank – or at least diluting with fresh fuel – is strongly recommended. Resisting the urge to “just see if it fires” can save significant engine wear. After long storage, oil drains from bearings and cylinder walls.
Where possible, disable ignition or fuel delivery and crank the engine until oil pressure registers on the gauge or warning light extinguishes. On carburetted cars, check that throttle linkages move freely and that accelerator pumps aren’t leaking.
Inspect belts and hoses carefully. Rubber hardens over time, and UK temperature swings can accelerate cracking. A snapped fan belt or burst coolant hose on first drive is an unpleasant way to reintroduce a car to the road.
When you’re confident fluids are correct and the engine is lubricated, start the car without touching the throttle unless necessary. Expect some smoke or uneven running initially, especially on engines with older valve-stem seals or carburettors.
Listen closely. Knocks, loud tapping or immediate overheating mean switch off and investigate – don’t assume it will “clear itself.” Allow the engine to reach operating temperature at idle, watching oil pressure and coolant temperature gauges carefully.
Check for leaks as the engine warms. Gaskets that were oil-tight when parked can weep once seals swell again. Minor leaks may settle, but significant drips should be addressed before driving.
Brakes deserve special attention after storage. Surface rust on discs is normal and usually clears after gentle use, but seized calipers or sticking wheel cylinders are not uncommon, especially on classics with infrequent fluid changes.
Before moving, press the brake pedal firmly – it should feel solid, not spongy or sinking. Check
handbrake operation, as cables can seize in damp conditions.
Turn the steering from lock to lock while stationary to ensure it moves smoothly. Listen for knocks from worn bushes or dry ball joints, which may have deteriorated during inactivity.
Your first outing should be short, local and deliberately unambitious. Choose quiet roads and avoid
motorways. Use all gears gently, listening for drivetrain noises and feeling for clutch slip or judder.
Pay attention to temperature, oil pressure and charging gauges. Classics often give subtle warnings before problems escalate. After 10 to 15 miles, return home and recheck fluid levels – especially oil and coolant – as air pockets may have worked their way out.
Once cooled, inspect the car again for leaks and loose fasteners. Retorque wheel nuts if wheels were removed during storage. This is also the moment to book or prepare for an MOT if required; remember that even MOT-exempt vehicles must be roadworthy under UK law. Read our guide to learn more about MOT exemptions for classic cars.
Over the next few hundred miles, gradually increase use while monitoring behaviour. Suspension bushes, seals and bearings often ‘re-awaken’ with use, revealing issues that weren’t obvious initially.
Finally, consider a fresh service once the car has completed a few hundred miles. This clears any contaminants loosened during recommissioning and sets a clean baseline for the season ahead.
Share you best tips for reawakening your classic below.
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